Guneri, D; Voegeli, R; Gurgul, SJ; Munday, MR; Rawlings, AV; (2018) A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays. International Journal of Cosmetic Science , 40 (3) pp. 207-216. 10.1111/ics.12454.

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Abstract

BACKGROUND: The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein‐lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC. OBJECTIVES: The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterize the CE. The photoexposed (PE) cheek and photoprotected (PP) post‐auricular sites were selected for investigation. METHODS: Nine tape strips were obtained from the cheek and post‐auricular sites of healthy Caucasians. CEs on the first and last tape strip were subjected to sonication to assess rigidity, and Nile red staining to determine hydrophobicity per unit surface area. In addition, the presence of involucrin and lipids was assessed to determine CE maturity by examination of the red/green pixel ratio, percentage of involucrin expressing CEs and alternatively the ratio of fluorescence density. RESULTS: The CE rigidity was lower in the deeper SC layers of the cheek, whereas post‐auricular CEs were mechanically more resistant. Post‐auricular CEs from the superficial SC had a larger surface area with a stronger fluorescence signal than those from the cheek. Interestingly, those CEs from the deeper SC layers had similar surface areas in both anatomical sites but were significantly different in hydrophobicity. These three parameters can be summarized as a relative CE maturity index that expresses CE maturity more precisely with a higher sensitivity than the conventional involucrin and Nile red staining approach. CEs of the cheek surface are more mature than CEs in the deeper SC layer, whereas CEs obtained from the post‐auricular surface are more mature than those from the cheek surface. CONCLUSION: The combined method developed allows characterization of CE maturity based on hydrophobicity per unit surface area and rigidity rather than a simple ratio of lipid to involucrin. A more robust and sensitive measurement has therefore been developed addressing the limitations of earlier protocols.

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