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Aesthetics and ethics: Upgrading textile production in northern Kerala

Norris, L; (2013) Aesthetics and ethics: Upgrading textile production in northern Kerala. Geoforum , 50 , Article C. 10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006. Green open access

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Abstract

This paper argues that producers in developing economies aiming to get a better deal may choose upgrading strategies that are highly influenced at the local level by relative positions of power in horizontal networks, and not only approaches aiming to increase value capture along vertical global production chains. Using the case study of a declining handloom industry in northern Kerala, the paper examines why local marketing strategies do not do more to capitalise on the brand value of Kerala’s achievements in social development and attempt to engage with ethical consumption initiatives in end markets. Rather, while cooperatives seek to gain more of the labour value of the goods they produce, local merchants focus upon aesthetic qualities and claims to regional authenticity through accreditation with Geographical Indication.

Type: Article
Title: Aesthetics and ethics: Upgrading textile production in northern Kerala
Open access status: An open access version is available from UCL Discovery
DOI: 10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006
Publisher version: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006
Additional information: �© 2013 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.
Keywords: Upgrading; Geographical Indication; Ethical consumption; Economic anthropology; Hand-loomed textiles; Kerala;
UCL classification: UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH > Faculty of SandHS > Dept of Anthropology
URI: https://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/id/eprint/1427469
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