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Plants to textiles: Local bast fiber textiles at Pre-Pottery Neolithic Çatalhöyük

Loudon, NN; Wollstonecroft, M; Fuller, DQ; (2023) Plants to textiles: Local bast fiber textiles at Pre-Pottery Neolithic Çatalhöyük. Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports , 49 , Article 103940. 10.1016/j.jasrep.2023.103940. Green open access

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Abstract

Textiles from Neolithic Çatalhöyük are among the earliest and best-preserved woven plant artifacts from ancient Southwest Asia. Recent examinations of textiles from Çatalhöyük's East Mound middle habitation phase (6700–6500 cal. B. C.) provide surprising evidence that instead of being made from flax (linen, Linum usitatissimum), as previously thought, the fibers are from the inner bark of trees (tree bast), some samples identified as bast from locally growing oak (Quercus sp.). The present paper reports on a separate analysis of five woven textile and two cordage fragments, also from the middle habitation phase. Our aims were to identify their raw material origins, distinguish the thread-making technology present, and to situate them within the broader chaîne opératoire of thread and textile making in the prehistory of the region. We observed that the thread-making technology was based on an end-to-end splicing method, and while agreeing with the earlier published study, that tree bast, not flax, was the source of the fiber, our results further suggest that elm (Ulmus sp.) and willow/poplar (Salicaceae) were also among the bast raw materials used in textile manufacture at the site. From these results we can infer that the textile makers possessed complex understandings of the biology, physiology, and seasonality of local wild tree genera throughout the surrounding environment.

Type: Article
Title: Plants to textiles: Local bast fiber textiles at Pre-Pottery Neolithic Çatalhöyük
Open access status: An open access version is available from UCL Discovery
DOI: 10.1016/j.jasrep.2023.103940
Publisher version: http://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2023.103940
Language: English
Additional information: © 2023 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier Ltd. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/bync-nd/4.0/).
Keywords: Cordage, Tree bast, Flax, Archaeobotany, Paleoethnobotany, Weaving, Southwest Asia
UCL classification: UCL
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH > Faculty of S&HS
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH > Faculty of S&HS > Institute of Archaeology
UCL > Provost and Vice Provost Offices > UCL SLASH > Faculty of S&HS > Institute of Archaeology > Institute of Archaeology Gordon Square
URI: https://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/id/eprint/10168971
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