"3. Which of the following materials would you NOT consider using to gap fill wooden objects? Adhesives are listed first, followed by fillers",,,,,,,
"Table shows order in which materials were listed in the survey, this allows comparision to Question 2",,92 responses,,,Table gives data in descending order,,
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,Response,Response,,,,Response,Response
,Percent,Count,,,,Percent,Count
Epoxy resin,55.4%,51,,,Linseed oil,72.8%,67
Acrylic resin (e.g. Paraloid/Acryloid B72),14.1%,13,,,Plaster,68.5%,63
"Acrylic resin emulsion (e.g. Primal B60A, Lascaux 98HV)",14.1%,13,,,Silicone rubber,67.4%,62
Hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel G),16.3%,15,,,"AJK / BJK dough (mix of thermoplastic resin, jute fibres and china clay powder)",56.5%,52
Methyl cellulose (e.g. Methocel),15.2%,14,,,Epoxy resin,55.4%,51
Ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g. Ethulose),16.3%,15,,,Urushi (Japanese lacquer),52.2%,48
Polyvinyl Acetate (e.g. Mowilith),15.2%,14,,,Cellulose nitrate,51.1%,47
Polyvinyl Acetate emulsion (e.g. Vinamul),22.8%,21,,,Chalk/gypsum (whiting),46.7%,43
Polyvinyl Butyral (e.g. Butvar B98),15.2%,14,,,Commercial wood fillers,45.7%,42
Cellulose nitrate,51.1%,47,,,Clay powder (e.g. kaolin),42.4%,39
Starch paste,30.4%,28,,,Animal glue,35.9%,33
Silicone rubber,67.4%,62,,,Waxes,31.5%,29
Animal glue,35.9%,33,,,Starch paste,30.4%,28
Urushi (Japanese lacquer),52.2%,48,,,Cork granules,30.4%,28
Waxes,31.5%,29,,,Sawdust,25.0%,23
Linseed oil,72.8%,67,,,Paper mache,23.9%,22
Plaster,68.5%,63,,,Polyvinyl Acetate emulsion (e.g. Vinamul),22.8%,21
Paper mache,23.9%,22,,,Wood flour,18.5%,17
"AJK / BJK dough (mix of thermoplastic resin, jute fibres and china clay powder)",56.5%,52,,,Fumed silica,17.4%,16
Chalk/gypsum (whiting),46.7%,43,,,Hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel G),16.3%,15
Clay powder (e.g. kaolin),42.4%,39,,,Ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g. Ethulose),16.3%,15
Paper pulp,12.0%,11,,,Methyl cellulose (e.g. Methocel),15.2%,14
Glass microballoons,7.6%,7,,,Polyvinyl Acetate (e.g. Mowilith),15.2%,14
Phenolic microballoons,13.0%,12,,,Polyvinyl Butyral (e.g. Butvar B98),15.2%,14
Wood flour,18.5%,17,,,Acrylic resin (e.g. Paraloid/Acryloid B72),14.1%,13
Sawdust,25.0%,23,,,"Acrylic resin emulsion (e.g. Primal B60A, Lascaux 98HV)",14.1%,13
Cork granules,30.4%,28,,,Phenolic microballoons,13.0%,12
Fumed silica,17.4%,16,,,Paper pulp,12.0%,11
A mixture of fillers (e.g. microballoons and paper pulp),8.7%,8,,,Balsa wood,10.9%,10
Long fibre tissue,5.4%,5,,,A mixture of fillers (e.g. microballoons and paper pulp),8.7%,8
Balsa wood,10.9%,10,,,Glass microballoons,7.6%,7
Commercial wood fillers,45.7%,42,,,Long fibre tissue,5.4%,5
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"15 respondents also left comments (open text, optional)",,,,,,,
I have not had experience with all of these materials so I would work with the material before deciding what it could or could not be used with.,,,,,,,
"Other irreversible resins, eg Polyester resins",,,,,,,
"I would not use epoxy as the adhesive, but rather as the filler.",,,,,,,
Your question does not inidicate whether the fills are structural or cosmetic in nature. That is a very important part of how one approaches the problem and what is used.,,,,,,,
I will consider any material and weigh its merits for the job in hand.,,,,,,,
I would not use epoxy resin without a barrier layer,,,,,,,
"As a general rule of thumb, I would try to avoid materials which would unable future treatments or have drawbacks, especially when a similar alternative is possible. There is one exception to it in my view: epoxy resins; They can provide strong structural/mechanical properties, little shrinkage (without solvent evaporation) although they are also prone to some degree of yellowing; I do restrain their use in very specific treatments. Also, some mix are not very compatible as fillers (eg: animal glue + glass microballoons makes a very brittle filling in comparison to animal glue + sawdust).",,,,,,,
"I would not choose to restric any options until I knew what the problem was. I have worked on fills in wood from tiny gaps to very large structural areas. In the latter case, only bulked epoxy provided the required strength and structure to support what was around it. However, epoxy would not be first choice except in extreme circumstances. I hope I am making sense. :)",,,,,,,
polyester resin - because of the hardness,,,,,,,
I would only use epoxy with caution if absolutely necessary,,,,,,,
Some I've ticked only because I do not know these materials and are not typically used in painting restoration!,,,,,,,
Of the ones I do not use now I may have used some in the past but would no longer consider them appropriate. This may be for a number of reasons including H&S issues with things like AJK/BJK dough because of the solvents involved.,,,,,,,
"I would not rule out the use of any of them. Keeping all options open, and testing each on its own merits is the problem-solver's approach.",,,,,,,
"Generally speaking fills should not be of a harder material than the object being filled (although like for like is considered exceptable). Having said this there are occasions were the object being treated is in an exceptionally weakened state (possibly from biological and/or insect attack) in these circumstances any fill material could inflict damage unless extremely flexible (plastazote, balsa,etc,). On the other hand if the damage is extensive and less than say 20% of the original remains eg biological or termite damage where only a shell remains, the fill material/s then become the major substrate and their sole purpose is to give strength and support what remains of the object.",,,,,,,
"Depends on the situation / requirements of the filler, some of those that I have not listed in 2 I may still consider depending on the properties required, so I have included just the ones that I would probably not try at all.",,,,,,,